Skincare Glossary

Your guide to understanding ingredients and terms for melanin-rich skin

AM Routine (Melanin-Safe)

Morning sequence: gentle cleanse → hydration serum → brightening serum → moisturiser + broad-spectrum SPF.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Peptide)

Signal peptide that helps soften expression-line look and support elasticity.
VOUEE Collagen & Peptide Firming Hydrogel Mask

Alpha-Arbutin

A stable melanin-modulating active that reduces excess pigment formation.
VOUEE Dark Spot Serum (30ml)

Atopic Dermatitis (Eczema)

Chronic itchy, inflamed, barrier-impaired skin.

Ceramide NP (Ceramides)

Barrier lipids that restore the stratum corneum’s moisture seal and resilience.
ZURI Exfoliate & Restore Body Toner (230ml)

Comedogenic vs Non-Comedogenic

Tendency of an ingredient/formula to clog pores (comedogenic) or not (non-comedogenic).

Double Cleanse

Oil-based cleanse to dissolve sunscreen/makeup, then a gentle water-based cleanser.

Ethyl Vitamin C (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid)

A stabilized vitamin C derivative with good skin penetration and tone-evening benefits.
VOUEE Dark Spot Serum (30ml)

Event-Prep Masking

Hydrating/soothing mask 1 day before; avoid new actives; focus on plump, calm finish.

Fitzpatrick Scale

A skin-type classification (I–VI) based on tanning/burning response used in dermatology and testing.

Fragrance-Free vs Unscented

Fragrance-free: no added scent chemicals; unscented: may contain masking agents.

Frictional Melanosis

Darkening from chronic rubbing, heat, or occlusion (e.g., inner thighs/underarms).

Gentle Exfoliation Cycle

Low-to-moderate AHA/BHA 2–4×/week depending on tolerance; avoid stacking with retinoids the same night.

Glutathione

Endogenous antioxidant that helps regulate oxidative stress and melanogenesis.
VOUEE Dark Spot Serum (30ml)

Glycolic Acid (AHA)

Alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates by loosening corneocyte bonds to smooth and brighten.
ZURI Exfoliate & Restore Body Toner (230ml)

Hyaluronic Acid (multi-weight)

Humectant family that binds water at multiple depths for fast and lasting hydration.
NSUO Deep Hydration Serum (30ml)

Inflammatory Acne

Papules/pustules/nodules driven by oil, C. acnes, and inflammation.

Keratosis Pilaris

Rough “chicken skin” from keratin plugs in follicles.

Melasma

Hormone-/UV-linked patchy hyperpigmentation, often on cheeks, forehead, upper lip.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

A water-soluble form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, moderates oil, and helps slow melanosome transfer (the step that makes spots look darker).
VOUEE Dark Spot Serum (30ml)
Niacinamide and Black Skin: Top 10 Questions Answered

Occlusive / Humectant / Emollient

Moisturizer roles: occlusives seal, humectants draw water, emollients smooth/soften.

PDRN / Sodium DNA (Polynucleotides)

Skin-conditioning polynucleotides that support repair signals, elasticity, and hydration.
VOUEE Salmon PDRN Regen & Lift (4 Ampoules)

PM Actives Routine

Night sequence: cleanse → treatment (retinoid or pigment serum) → buffer with hydration → moisturiser. Alternate actives.

Patch Test

Trying a small amount on a discreet area for 24–72h to check tolerance.

Photoaging

Premature skin aging from UV/visible/IR light (wrinkles, laxity, uneven tone).

Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE)

Pink/red marks from dilated surface vessels post-blemish.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

Dark marks that form after inflammation or injury as melanocytes produce excess pigment.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

Dark marks that appear after inflammation (acne, irritation, friction) due to increased melanin.

Post-Shave Care (Face/Neck)

Lukewarm cleanse → soothing hydration → lightweight moisturiser; introduce BHA 2–3×/week once calm.

Pseudofolliculitis Barbae

Curved hairs re-enter skin causing bumps and inflammation after shaving.

Purging vs Irritation

Purging = faster turnover reveals existing clogs; irritation = barrier damage/inflammation.

Retinoid Night

Cleanse → hydrating serum → gentle retinoid → moisturiser; start 1–3×/week and build.

Salicylic Acid (BHA)

Oil-soluble exfoliant that penetrates pores to reduce congestion and texture.
RUWA Triple Acid Glow Face Cleanser with AHA/BHA/PHA (100ml)

Seborrheic Dermatitis

Flaky patches in oil-rich areas linked to Malassezia.

Skin Barrier

The outermost layer (stratum corneum + lipids) that keeps moisture in and irritants out.

Spot-Treating Dark Spots

Apply brightening actives to marks only; support surrounding skin with hydration and SPF.

Sun-Induced Hyperpigmentation

UV/visible-light triggered darkening and mottled tone.

Sunscreen Reapplication

Reapply SPF every 2–3h outdoors; use adequate dose (“two-finger” face, more for neck/hands/chest).

TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss)

The amount of water passively evaporating through the skin barrier.

Travel/AC Recovery

Hydrating serum + occlusive-leaning moisturiser; mist or reapply humectants; keep actives minimal.

UVA / UVB / PA Rating

UVB causes burns; UVA penetrates deeper (aging/PIH). PA grade reflects UVA protection level.

Underarm/Inner-Thigh Care

Clean, dry skin → thin layer of body exfoliating toner 3–5×/week → moisturise; pause 24–48h post-shave/wax.

Visible Light (HEV)

High-energy visible light from sun/screens that can impact pigmentation.

White Cast

A visible pale/grey film left by some sunscreens, especially mineral filters.