The key for using acids safely on darker skin tones is to start with lower concentrations of larger molecular acids like lactic, mandelic, or polyhydroxy acids. Introduce them slowly, monitor for any reactions, and always use proper sun protection. It’s also recommended to consult a dermatologist experienced in treating darker skin tones before using any aggressive peel treatments.

1/ Size Matters

Acids with smaller molecular sizes like glycolic acid can penetrate deeper into the skin, increasing the risk of irritation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation for darker skin tones. Larger molecular acids like lactic, mandelic, or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are generally better tolerated

2/Start With Lower Concentrations

Even generally well-tolerated acids can cause issues if used at very high concentrations on darker skin tones. Start with lower concentrations (e.g. 5-10% lactic acid, 5% mandelic acid) and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance

3/Monitor For Reactions

Pay close attention to how your skin reacts after introducing a new acid. Signs that it may be too harsh include excessive dryness, redness, stinging, peeling or a worsening of hyperpigmentation

4/Opt For Buffered/Neutralized Formulas

Highly acidic, unbuffered products can be overly aggressive on melanin-rich skin. Look for formulas that have a skin-friendly pH or are buffered to reduce irritation potential 

5/Patch Test First

Before applying any new acid all over your face, do a patch test on a small area of skin first and watch for any adverse reactions over 24-48 hours.

6/Consider Your Skin Type

Those with dry, sensitive skin may need to be more cautious with certain acids compared to oily or resilient skin types. Darker skin tones can be prone to many things – dryness, water loss, keloids, hyperpigmentation, scarring etc.

The general consensus is that larger molecular acids like lactic, mandelic, azelaic or polyhydroxy acids tend to be safer options for gently exfoliating darker skin tones when used properly. If you experience any irritation, scale back usage or switch to a gentler acid.

At VOUEE, we use a few acids – Hyaluronic, Retinoic, Lactic, Salicylic – these have all been tested for darker skin tones. Feel free to check out the user reviews here.